Anna
Harkey is a second year doctoral
student in the Archaeology program. She has been
in Khonkho Wankane, Bolivia and various archaeological
sites across Peru studying Andean archaeology, with
a focus on the Late Intermediate and Inca - Colonial
periods (roughly 11th to 16 th centuries CE).
As
part of her research, Anna visited several major
tourist attractions and several other places off
the beaten path. She finds that Cusco is “expensive
and crawling with tourists (but don't let that stop
you; it’s still worth the visit)” but “Chincheros
and Ollantaytambo—both a couple of hours outside
Cusco—are impressive in their own right.” Above
all, “Kuelap, the largest archaeological site
in the Chachapoyas region of Peru, has the all beauty
of Machu Picchu but without the swarms of tourists.”
For
culinary exploration, Anna recommends “Reineke
Fuchs in La Paz, Baco in Cusco (be sure to try the
fudge cake with red wine sorbet), and in Khonkho,
fry bread any time its offered.” Also, one
should “not leave the altiplano without trying
llama jerky.”
For
future travelers, Anna ruefully remarks, “in
places where it might snow, it's a good idea to bring
waterproof boots!” A useful Aymara phrase is "Kamisaraki?
("How are you?")… "Waliki!" (“Good”)
is the standard reply. She also counsels, “dirt
happens; get used to it, and the things that don't
go as planned really are the most memorable.”
To talk to Anna more about her travels and research
you may reach her at harkey (at) berkeley (dot) edu. |